Far From the Madding Crowd
8 of my favorite destinations found whilst following my nose.
My favorite way to wander the world is over her surface. My longest stretch between visits home to NY is at least 6 months on several occasions. I toured the lower 48 with 2 different shows from September 22nd, 2001 (that’s another story…) until June 2002. So, with my month spent teaching on the Big Island, I’ve made it to every state but Alaska I’ve made it to Vargas Island (listed), off the coast of Vancouver.
I’d have to estimate my time spent on the Continent and in the UK & Ireland, post Kindergarten, at a couple of years, at least, traveling (or living) overland for extended periods. I lived in Europe until I was 5, and though I traveled the Schengen Area, I don’t enumerate that period in my count of all 330 countries, colonies, territories & exclaves. I returned to Europe at 15 as an exchange student during the summer after my Freshman year…Pre Chunnel. Pre EuroZone. We exchanged Traveler’s Checks daily following every passport stamp.
Travel by train, even car, in Europe is worth the additional expense of cash and time considering low cost carrier baggage allowance, but nothing exceeds the value of encountering unrecognized republics like Transnistria, and placid, unpeopled medieval villages like Ohrid, North Macedonia (listed).
Other slow travel highlights include four months from Argentina to Mexico, six weeks from Trinidad to Fernando de Noronha (on the list), half the Caribbean, with a month spent circumnavigating Hispaniola and a month trying to get all the way to Santiago de Cuba and failing at Holguin. I love exploring the Caribbean Ferry networks with an E Bike. Bliss.
I’ve accumulated over 2 years visiting every state in India. Over a year in Southeast Asia with a couple months concentrated in Thailand, a month in Vietnam, North to South and all 7 major islands of Indonesia, where I discovered lake Toba, Sumatra (listed). Japan earned 3 months over 3 visits in less than 2 years, specifically Beppu (listed), on the southernmost and most volcanic “mainland” island of Kyushu…but this list, though not exhaustive IS exhausting, so I’ll cut to the chase with my non hierarchical list of 8 notable destinations that may take a little longer to get to, but may demand a longer stay. I’ll expand these into their own articles, eventually, but gatekeeping these juicy secrets was weighing on my conscience.
Beppu, Japan
After my first 3 week visit to Japan (Tokyo / Kyoto / Yokohama) I immediately googled “City with Most Hot Springs in Japan” and found Beppu, by the sea, with 80 Onsen to soak in before every meal for a month. 3 weeks later, I was in my 4 week rental overlooking the Bay of Beppu. I just returned from 25 days exploring Okinawa and more of Kyushu, including Hitoyoshi’s Hot Springs, and Hyuga’s hushed, somnambulant surfside. My final week in Beppu felt like a reunion. If you brake for Hot Springs, this is your Epcot.
Fernando de Noronha, Brazil
I may never have discovered this destination had I not grown curious about a complete count of countries, colonies, territories two years ago. While this destinations necessitates a flight…or a yacht…for me, it was the finale of a six week sojourn from Trinidad & Tobago, through Guyana, Suriname, French Guyana and the Amazon overland so I could get to the closest, most affordable to airport to take the 2 connecting small engine / propeller planes to the tiny island far off the northern coast of Brazil.
There are several mandatory Taxes & Conservation Fees associated with visiting the island, but the value is unparalleled. I have never felt safer on a beach, on an island, in South America, Period. Only 3,000 locals know everyone who comes and goes. The tourists are incredibly limited, and the imported workers won’t take any risks with their Jobs and Visas. You can leave your bag on the barren beach unbothered while you soak in the salt and sun, snorkle some of the most well preserved coral and diverse marine life on the planet and row through rows of hundreds of Spinner Dolphins during sunrise.
I feel confident sharing this destination because it is already protected and space is limited.
Ohrid, North Macedonia
I still have obsolete Macedonia currency because I visited before the rebrand. I had no expectations about so many places, but especially Eastern Europe, especially as I adapted to the shared cultural themes of former Yugoslavian States. Ohrid is the medieval stone lakeside village where the Cyrillic Alphabet was invented. Enveloped in a landscape that defies both description and imagination, I wept, dockside, dining on fresh, fried, whole, small fish with nothing but Salt, Lemon and the mineral rich crystal waters they were raised in.
Samosir Island, Indonesia
The largest of it’s kind, that is: an island created by a volcanic (super)eruption that sits within the volcano itself, surrounded by the largest volcanic lake in the world. While Sumatra is relatively easy to get to overland from major hubs like both KL and Singapore, once can fly nearby from those destinations and Jakarta, as well. Still quite a few hours to go, by car and boat, though, unless you have a helicopter.
Isolated Samosir’s culture is decidedly Tribal, specifically Batak, versus Islamic. One can’t help but notice the ubiquitous signage announcing “Magic Mushrooms“ outside every restaurant and hostel, but with no greater fanfare than any other menu item. Imagine my surprise to discover that these weren’t simply superlative mushrooms, but, rather, in fact, the largest, wettest, spongiest, cleanest, juiciest BIGGEST, psychedelic mushrooms I’ve ever encountered.
Of course I immediately returned the fluffy, farm fresh free range magic mushroom omelette back to the elderly grandmother chef with apologies for the confusion because I would never, of course, never, use illegal drugs anywhere in the world, but I have it on expert authority that the potency of the island’s signature fungi may offer experienced psychonauts a “soul enema” of sorts.
With or without mycelium, I found Samosir to be one of my favorite places in my somewhat extensive survey of the 7 major islands of Indonesia. If you crave quiet, waterfall hikes, crisp lake dives and warm locals eager to share their culture with you.
Vargas Island, Canada
Only about four or five folks own property on this Provincial Park Island off the coast of Tofino, Vancouver, and I’m fortunate to have been invited by one of them to spend a month teaching here in a handcrafted, old growth cedar inn built and owned by the same family since the turn of the last century.
My host, Simon Nessman, has since expanded his operation to becomeCedar Coast Art & Ecology. This venue will elevate any experience you may be crafting for a small group of 18-40 overnight and 100 day guests, who can be housed a short boat ride away in Tofino.
From Vancouver, you still have another day…or two…of travel to get to the island. Sunset and tides are a factor that may have you bunking in the beach van in Tofino. If your karma has accumulated the blessing of a pilgrimage to this, to me, sacred place, give yourself a full month to follow the Moon’s monthly progress across the sky from left to right and full to new. Listen to the lessons the indigenous wolf pack is screaming at you nightly. In the nearby hot springs where the salty sea water meets the sulphurous spring water in several pool, you may meet, as I did, a First Nation Father chanting with his son, shaking ceremonial instruments made with bone, leather and crystals.
Santa Catalina, Panama
Six hours from either airport in David or Panama City, Santa Catalina is a paradise for surfers, divers, and mediterranean expats. The beaches are exceptional with several accessible areas appropriate for all levels. World class divers are lured here to explore the corals around Puerta Plata, dubbed “Baby Galapagos“ because it shares Blue Footed Boobies with it’s more famous, distant, cousin.
Spanish and Italian expats bought and built a village in the the early 2000’s, so this remote destination is not without world class food. Handmade pasta, creamy cappuccini, a brick oven built for woodfired pizza and, of course, a beautiful, fresh fish cooked with expert precision, simplicity and respect for their new home and community.
Livingston, Guatemala
Had armed guerillas not blocked my way to Tikal, I never would have detoured to the little known English speaking seat of the Garifuna Diaspora, accessible only by boat through narrow, towering limestone cliffs.
The kidnapped cargo of a slave trader’s ship mutineed, crashing on the coast of the Grenadines. The mingled with the local Garifuna tribe, until the Caribe made them uncomfortable enough to move to other shores. Though the current community shares most of their characteristics with their African Ancestors, they identify as indigenous.
If you can find Livingstone, your next adventure is to find Calle Ocho, the waterfront venue for live mixed music and dancing that may make even the most jaded NYC night-lifer blush. Be careful, though…seriously…but worth the (calculated) risk.
Rubondo Island, Tanzania
I can’t responsibly recommend traveling by car from Kigali, Rwanda to Kilimanjaro. The people are great, though the roads that demand caution! Despite a day trip requiring an overnight and a tire change, it did lead to my discovery of one of the least visited parks in Africa, on the banks of Lake.
The game reserve was established in 1965 after the four hundred Zinza Tribe members were relocated to other islands. I was the only guest when I visited. Rangers were plentiful, though, protecting the imported animals from poachers and protecting me from the two Hippos soaking in the shade outside my cottage. The government owned and operated amenities are in a state of wear and neglect, but the proximity to wildlife and connection with the park staff is unrivaled.
This list is so short, but lists will meet no end, no doubt! Let me know if there’s a list of ______ destinations you’d like me to share my biased opinion on.